How Much Does a Vegetable Garden Cost/Save?

OSU Master Gardener(TM): How Much Does a Vegetable Garden Cost/Save?

Great article from Gail Langellotto, coordinator of the OSU Master Gardener Program, who describes the monetary value of home vegetable gardens.  Click on the link above to read Gail's full story.  Here is a portion of the article:


"For each garden, I looked at the difference between yield and cost (difference = yield - cost). I adjusted the value of the difference to its 2012 value, using an online Consumer Price Index inflation calculator. I then divided this adjusted difference by the size of the garden, to arrive at the value per square foot of garden area.

Source	Location	Size (Square Feet)	Cost	Yield	Difference	Difference, Adjusted to 2012 Value	Value/Square Foot
Stephens et al. 1980 #1	Tallahassee, Florida	1,400	$70	$384	$314	$874.14	$0.62
Stephens et al. 1980 #2	Jacksonville, Florida	638	$83.00	$416.00	$333.00	$927.03	$1.45
Stall 1979	Homestead, Florida	600	$333.65	$495.70	$162.05	$512.02	$0.85
Doiron 2009	Scarborough, Maine	10,890	$282.00	$2431.00	$2149.00	$2297.80	$0.21
Roth 2008	Oregon	878	$318.43	$606.97	$288.54	$307.42	$0.35
Cleveland et al. 1985 #1	Tucson, Arizona	833	$45.00	$154.00	$109.00	$232.38	$0.28
Cleveland et al. 1985 #2	Tucson, Arizona	627.5	$56.00	$178.00	$122.00	$260.09	$0.41
Utzinger and Connolly Harrison 1978	Columbus, OH	150.7	$46.00	$90.00	$44.00	$154.80	$0.41

Altogether, the gardens had an AVERAGE VALUE OF $0.65 / square foot of garden area, and a MEDIAN VALUE OF $0.52 / square foot of garden area.

For a modest-sized garden, 200 square feet in size, that's a return of $104 in the first year. For larger gardens, 500-700 square feet in size, that's a return of $260-$364 in year one, alone!

In at least 5 out of the 8 observations (all but Cleveland et al. 1985, and maybe Utzinger and Connolly Harrison 1978), the costs incurred included what was needed to establish a garden, and not simply to maintain a garden. These costs are sure to decrease in subsequent years, as the cost of maintaining a garden is substantially less than start up costs.

Thus, even in the first year after establishment, the net economic benefits of vegetable gardening are positive - and these economic benefits are sure to increase in years two, three and beyond.

The consistent 'winners' in these papers included:

• salad greens
  
• tomatoes
  
• beets
  
• broccoli
  
• potatoes
  
• strawberries

These were the fruits and vegetables that yielded the most, in terms of dollars saved by not having to purchase these items. However, to truly get the best value from your vegetable garden, it is important to plant what your family likes to eat."

Win the Battle Against Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most easily recognizable diseases of landscape and garden plants.  While most fungal pathogens are favored by wet weather, powdery mildew pathogens favor high humidity but not wet conditions.  Shady areas, areas with poor air circulation, and low areas that trap damp air are ideal environments for disease development.

Powdery fungal growth is an easily recognizable symptom of powdery mildew disease.

A wide range of plants are susceptible to powdery mildew:  annuals, perennials, shrubs, ornamental and fruit trees, small fruit, and vegetables.  While symptoms appear similar on most plants, powdery mildew fungi are usually host-specific.  For example, powdery mildew of dogwood cannot infect pumpkins or cucurbits, and powdery mildew of cantaloupe will not infect phlox or rose. 

Typical symptoms of powdery mildew include dusty fungal growth on surfaces of leaves and on young succulent plant tissue (Photo 1 & 2).  Powdery mildew may occur as isolated blotches or cover entire leaves, stems, buds, or flowers.  Early infections can lead to leaf stunting, curling, or other deformation (Photo 2).  Infected fruit may become disfigured or fall prematurely (Photo 3).  In the fall, small fruiting structures that resemble pepper flakes may be visible to the naked eye (Photo 4 & 5).  These structures contain overwintering spores that serve as inoculum for the following year.

Infection of young growth may result in stunted or deformed tissue.

Management of powdery mildew begins with prevention.  Plants should be properly spaced and thinned for improved air circulation and more rapid leaf drying.  Resistant cultivars are available for crabapple, dogwood, phlox, zinnia, cucurbits, and several other plants and are an excellent means of disease prevention.

Fruit infections ultimately lead to yield loss.

Fungicides usually are not warranted when cultural practices are implemented.  Early season infection, however, may require one or more applications of effective fungicides.  Homeowners have a wide range of fungicides available.  However, they should carefully read labels to confirm that the selected fungicide may be used legally on select plants or that the fungicide is suitable for edible plants.

Fungicides effective against powdery mildew include:

·         Chlorothalonil – broad spectrum protectant; ornamentals, some fruit and many vegetables

o   Bonide Fungonil concentrate or Fungonil RTU

o   Ortho MAX Garden Disease Control

o   Sevin Daconil

·         Myclobuanil – systemic; ornamentals, most fruit and vegetables

o   Spectracide Immunox (only Immunox Multi-purpose Fungicide Concentrate is labeled for use on fruit and vegetables)

·         Propiconazole – systemic; ornamentals, some fruit

o   Bonide Fungonil RTS (different from other Fungonil products, which contain chlorothalonil)

o   Bonide Infuse

o   Fertilome Liquid Systemic

·         Tebuconazole – systemic; ornamentals only

o   Bayer Advanced Disease Control

o   Bonide Rx Systemic

·         Triflorine – systemic; ornamentals only

o   Ortho Rose Pride Disease Control

Late in the growing season, powdery mildew fungi produce small, black overwintering structures that can serve as inoculum the following year.