Showing posts with label home gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home gardening. Show all posts

Monday, December 17, 2012

How Much Does a Vegetable Garden Cost/Save?

OSU Master Gardener(TM): How Much Does a Vegetable Garden Cost/Save?

Great article from Gail Langellotto, coordinator of the OSU Master Gardener Program, who describes the monetary value of home vegetable gardens.  Click on the link above to read Gail's full story.  Here is a portion of the article:


"For each garden, I looked at the difference between yield and cost (difference = yield - cost). I adjusted the value of the difference to its 2012 value, using an online Consumer Price Index inflation calculator. I then divided this adjusted difference by the size of the garden, to arrive at the value per square foot of garden area.

Source Location Size (Square Feet) Cost Yield Difference Difference, Adjusted to 2012 Value Value/Square Foot
Stephens et al. 1980 #1 Tallahassee, Florida 1,400 $70 $384 $314 $874.14 $0.62
Stephens et al. 1980 #2 Jacksonville, Florida 638 $83.00 $416.00 $333.00 $927.03 $1.45
Stall 1979 Homestead, Florida 600 $333.65 $495.70 $162.05 $512.02 $0.85
Doiron 2009 Scarborough, Maine 10,890 $282.00 $2431.00 $2149.00 $2297.80 $0.21
Roth 2008 Oregon 878 $318.43 $606.97 $288.54 $307.42 $0.35
Cleveland et al. 1985 #1 Tucson, Arizona 833 $45.00 $154.00 $109.00 $232.38 $0.28
Cleveland et al. 1985 #2 Tucson, Arizona 627.5 $56.00 $178.00 $122.00 $260.09 $0.41
Utzinger and Connolly Harrison 1978 Columbus, OH 150.7 $46.00 $90.00 $44.00 $154.80 $0.41


Altogether, the gardens had an AVERAGE VALUE OF $0.65 / square foot of garden area, and a MEDIAN VALUE OF $0.52 / square foot of garden area.


For a modest-sized garden, 200 square feet in size, that's a return of $104 in the first year. For larger gardens, 500-700 square feet in size, that's a return of $260-$364 in year one, alone!

In at least 5 out of the 8 observations (all but Cleveland et al. 1985, and maybe Utzinger and Connolly Harrison 1978), the costs incurred included what was needed to establish a garden, and not simply to maintain a garden. These costs are sure to decrease in subsequent years, as the cost of maintaining a garden is substantially less than start up costs.


Thus, even in the first year after establishment, the net economic benefits of vegetable gardening are positive - and these economic benefits are sure to increase in years two, three and beyond.

The consistent 'winners' in these papers included:

  • salad greens
  • tomatoes
  • beets
  • broccoli
  • potatoes
  • strawberries





These were the fruits and vegetables that yielded the most, in terms of dollars saved by not having to purchase these items. However, to truly get the best value from your vegetable garden, it is important to plant what your family likes to eat."

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Homeowner Grape Spray Schedule - Low Impact

Home gardeners who are overwhelmed by spray schedules may be interested in this quick publication. Note, this is a low-impact schedule, so high disease pressure will warrant revision. Contact your UK county Extension agent or refer to other UK publications for more detailed information http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id21/id21.pdf and http://www.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/PPFShtml/PPFS-MISC-7.pdf



Sample Simplified Home Grape Low-Spray Schedule

Dr. John Strang, Dr. Patsy Wilson, Dr. Nicole Ward & Dr. Ric Bessin University of Kentucky Extension Horticulture, Viticulture, Plant Pathology, and Entomology Specialists respectively

2012


Recommendations based on ID-21. For organic options refer to ID-21. This schedule should provide reasonable control in most seasons, but is not a complete schedule to control every pest problem.  It uses a minimal number of products.

Black Rot of Grape (Clemson)


Dormant

Ø Sulforix – Anthracnose

Bud Swell

Ø Sevin – only if flea beetles are noted eating holes in the buds

New Growth (2-4” long)

Ø Mancozeb* + myclobutanil - for black rot, Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, powdery mildew & downy mildew

Ø Myclobutanil (Immunox) is systemic and won’t wash off.

New Growth (10-15” long or 7-10 days after last spray)

Ø Mancozeb + myclobutanil for black rot, Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, powdery mildew and downy mildew

Pre- bloom (Just before blooms open)

Ø Mancozeb + myclobutanil - for black rot, Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, powdery mildew & downy mildew

Bloom

Ø Mancozeb + myclobutanil - for black rot, powdery mildew & downy mildew

Post Bloom

Ø Captan + myclobutanil - for black rot, powdery mildew & downy mildew

Ø Sevin – grape berry moth control

Ø Mix all of these in the same spray tank

First, Second third and forth cover sprays (every 10 to 14 days**)

Ø Captan + myclobutanil - for black rot, powdery mildew & downy mildew

Ø Sevin – Spray for Japanese beetles only when they are present.

Ø Check label for PHI and abide by this




*May substitute Captan for Mancozeb throughout this spray schedule

**Spray schedule frequency should be shortened in rainy weather and extended in dry weather.  Early season sprays are very important because this is a protectant spray program.

Homeowner Apple Spray Schedule - Low Impact

Home gardeners who are overwhelmed by spray schedules may be interested in this quick publication.  Note, this is a low-impact schedule, so high disease pressure will warrant revision.  Contact your UK county Extension agent or refer to other UK publications for more detailed information http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id21/id21.pdf and http://www.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/PPFShtml/PPFS-MISC-7.pdf 


Sample Simplified Home Apple Low-Spray Schedule

Compiled by Beth Wilson, Pulaski County Horticulture Agent, and

Dr. John Strang, University of Kentucky Extension Fruit Specialist

2011



For pictures of growth stages, see pages 18 and 19 in ID-21.

Recommendations based on ID-21. For organic options refer to ID-21.



Dormant (before buds swell)

Ø Fixed copper – fire blight control

Ø Dormant oil – only if you have scale insect problems

Ø These two sprays may be combined if fixed copper is used.

Green tip to half-inch green

Ø Fixed copper (if you did not spray as a dormant spray) – fire blight control

Ø Dormant oil if not used earlier – for mites and aphids

Ø Mancozeb* + Immunox (myclobutanil)  fungicides for control of apple scab and rust

Ø Fixed copper, dormant oil, Mancozeb and immunox can be combined in one spray.

Ø No insecticide needed at this point

Just before blooms open

Ø Mancozeb + Immunox – you will be on a 10 to 14 day spray schedule with this. Immunox is systemic and won’t wash off.

Ø Mancozeb must be re-applied if a significant rain (more than one inch occurs)

Ø Mancozeb has a 77 day pre-harvest interval (PHI), so you MUST stop spraying with this at least 77 days before you expect the apples to be harvested.

Ø Plus Malathion insecticide

Bloom

Ø Mancozeb – for cedar apple rust and scab control

Ø No insecticides

Ø Streptomycin – Fire blight control (every 4 days for a total of no more than 4 sprays for maximum control)

After petals fall

Ø Mancozeb + Immunox

Ø Malathion – for insect control

Ø Mix all of these in the same spray tank

Every 2 weeks after

Ø Use mancozeb as long as you can per the 77 day PHI, mix with malathion or permethrin (rotate these 2)

Ø Orchard spray – use this after mancozeb can no longer be safely used.

Ø Orchard spray contains captan (fungicide) and malathion usually, no need to mix in additional insecticide.  Add Topsin M (thiophanate-methyl), another fungicide for powdery mildew and improved sooty blotch and flyspeck control

Ø Check label for PHI and abide by this



*May substitute Captan for Mancozeb throughout this spray schedule